Showing posts with label design process. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design process. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Pretty, Pretty BFL

What a busy month! With Calliopsis just published, a large secret project for a magazine under way, a new sock design in progress, and a new fingerless mitts pattern almost ready to publish, I basically have knitwear design on my mind 24 hours a day.

The mitts—a pretty combination of lace, stockinette, and garter stitch—are my first design with my own handspun yarn.

Handspun Mitt Beginning

The fiber is Ashland Bay Mixed BFL Top, which I spun and plied with drop spindles; the resulting two-ply yarn is fingering weight, 16 wpi.

Handspun BFL mitts

I had about 140 yards to work with. So I weighed the yarn carefully as I knit, making sure I wouldn't run out. In the end, the small/medium size used about 125 yards. There's also a large size, which requires about 140 yards.

Spindle-spun and Spindle-plied BFL

I think there will definitely be more BFL in my spinning future! I enjoyed both spinning and knitting it. But what I loved most was how, after a good soak in Eucalan, the fabric developed a really pretty halo. And it's so soft!  A delight to feel against your skin.

My sister Jenny, an accomplished spinner with years of experience (far more than me—I'm still a newbie), says BFL is her current favorite sheep breed because "it is a pleasure to spin and finishes up soft and lustrous, not as fussy or pill-prone as merino." So far, with my limited experience, I'd have to concur.

Handspun BFL and Mitts

They're called Spindler Mitts, and I hope to publish them next week. To get news about these and all my new patterns delivered directly to your inbox, sign up for the monthly Blue Peninsula newsletter.


Sunday, April 10, 2016

Inside the Design Process: Yarn Auditions

Knitters have stashes. Some are big, some are virtuously small, but we all indulge from time to time in buying yarns that we don't have immediate plans for. We even have special vocabulary for stash: When we see a new pattern we like, we talk about going "stash diving." We go on "stash diets," especially when our stash approaches SABLE (stash amassed beyond life expectancy). We blame our "stash enhancement" on "yarn fumes."

As a designer, I'm as guilty of amassing stash as anyone else. But it's all strictly for professional reasons—I can't design without yarn, right? I also save leftovers from finished projects to use for future swatching. If I like a yarn, I will probably use it again, so it's worth keeping the odd bits.

Over the past week or so, I "auditioned" stash yarns for a lace shawl I'm planning. The first two were Rhinebeck acquisitions: a fingering weight alpaca/merino/nylon blend from Tika Designs that I dyed with red onion skins, and some blue-grey Pakokku Sock from Into the Whirled. 

Shawl Swatching

Shawl Swatching

Auditioning yarns for a shawl design. Who will get the part? (The one on the right I dyed with red onion skins.) #bluepeninsula #knitweardesign #knitweardesigner #knitting #knittersofinstagram #knitstagram

I love this part of the design process: Seeing how a yarn knits up with the stitch patterns I have in mind. Figuring out the best needle size to use. Measuring swatches before and after blocking to learn how the yarn behaves. Hanging up the swatches and imagining how the finished, much larger piece will look.

Blocking results. A third contender is now being blocked, because why stop at two? #bonniesennott #bluepeninsula #knitting #knittersofinstagram #knitstagram #knitweardesign #knitweardesigner

Though I liked both of these first two swatches, I did feel the lighter-colored yarn showed off the lace better. I felt the fabric could have been a little less firm, though. Had I decided to go with this yarn, I'd have tried a larger needle size to see how that would affect the drape.

But these two swatches suggested to me that my design might look best in a very "crisp" solid-color yarn, and I remembered how well Louet Gems fingering had worked for one of my early lace scarf designs, Anita Caroline. Into my fingering weight stash basket I dove, looking for a bit of leftover Gems.

Shawl Swatching

I felt that everything came together with the Gems swatch: The yarn and needle size were just right for each other, the lace stitches looked terrific. Unfortunately, I didn't have any unused skeins in my stash . . .  but fortunately, Louet Gems is on sale this month at WEBS, so off I went.

Shawl Swatching

The two yarns that didn't get the part will definitely be used before long. I have another shawl idea in mind that I think the onion-skin-dyed yarn would be perfect for. The blue-grey yarn may end up as socks (which is why I bought it in the first place).

Three swatches is not bad—I sometimes knit many more than that while working out a new design. Aside from showing me which yarn worked best, they helped me tweak my charts. After making some adjustments to the placement of stitches along the edge of the triangle that "grows" with every right-side row, I was ready to cast on.

Shawl Swatching

So far, so good!  The terra cotta color from my stash is discontinued, so I went with brick red.

I hope to publish the pattern in May, during the next Blue Peninsula knitalong, Yarn Over 2016. The KAL starts April 24, but we'll start talking about yarns and patterns before then. Will you be stash diving or getting new yarn?

Sunday, February 28, 2016

Inside the Design Process: How a Design Comes Together

Since I've got a new mitts design in progress, today I thought I'd write a little about how my designs come together. You might be surprised how unstraightforward the design process often is. The path is usually circuitous, with a lot of unexpected twists and turns.

Once in a great while, from the moment I get a new-to-me yarn, I see immediately how it can be used, and a design takes off almost as soon as I have the yarn in my hands. That sounds wonderfully romantic, I suppose, but it's not typical of how creativity works for me. Most of the time, I have to live with a yarn for a while, swatch with it, experiment with stitches and needle sizes. 

Swatches are where most of my designs arise from. I rarely sketch out an idea, then "plug in" stitch patterns and choose appropriate yarns. Instead, I makes swatches as much as time allows. And from the swatches and particular qualities of the yarn, garments or accessories come to mind. 

Stitch dictionaries are a starting point, but I often end up charting out a stitch pattern and playing with it a bit. How would it looked combined with this other stitch pattern? What happens if I make it wider and taller? Etc. I live with my swatches for a while, usually knitting them in different yarns, looking at them this way and that, letting them hang out in my home and my unconscious, where things percolate.

Mitt knit with walnut-dyed Chickadee Bar

Every design comes together in a different way. The new mitts design has been atypical for me, in that it came together in a flash. But did it?  First of all, I used a yarn I've knit with many times before, Quince and Co. Chickadee. From previous experiences, I know it is a smooth, plump sport weight yarn with really excellent stitch definition. Pomegranate, Briscoe, and Warble taught me how perfect Chickadee is for sculptural lace stitches. So—did my yarn choice happen "in a flash," or did it grow from all that my hands and mind have learned about Chickadee over the past few years?

Lace Swatch

And then there's the stitch pattern. I swatched it several years ago, in green Quince and Co. Tern, left over from my Leaves of Three mitts. I liked it—a lot! So much so that I've had it out and always in view, using it as a "doily" under a little crochet basket. I shake the dust off it every now and then, admiring the pretty lace, but no ideas have come to mind.

Until this week. This week, I dyed some white Chickadee Bare with walnuts that I picked up in my backyard last fall. I thought maybe I could get a nice oatmeal color if I pulled the yarn from the dye pot at the right moment. I wanted a color that in its delicacy and freshness said "spring."

I was really happy with how the color came out. It was while the yarn was drying that the "lightbulb" moment happened. I picked up the little green lace swatch, held it against my hand, recalled how well Chickadee works for lace, and thought, "spring mitts." 

Mitts and Swatch

So. they're happening, and going really well, with no major changes of mind or ripping back. The design process rarely goes this smoothly for me! I keep expecting something to go awry but so far nothing has.

But, even though it's coming together quickly, did this design really take shape in the cliched "a ha!" moment? I think not. I think it began four or five years ago, at least. And it's affirmed for me once again that every small choice matters—trying a new yarn, swatching stitch patterns for no purpose other than the joy of discovery, throwing a bunch of black walnuts into an old pot to see what happens. Once again, I am reminded of Emerson's wise advice: "Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience."

I plan to publish the pattern during the Mitts Madness KAL, which starts today. A few folks have already cast on, while others are pondering patterns and yarns. Of course, there will be some lovely prizes, too. The KAL ends March 31, so there's plenty of time to knit yourself or a friend a new pair of mitts for spring. Hope to see you!

Mitts!

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